13 Hidden Red Flags That Reveal a Lemon Car in Seconds
Sometimes, car sellers can try to cover up damage or tamper with the odometer to charge more money. Whether you’re going to a dealership or a private seller, as a car buyer, you must be extra vigilant when buying a used car.
Before you go out and purchase a used car, be prepared to be vigilant about what you're getting yourself into. With our 13 expert tips, you’ll be able to spot a lemon before handing over your hard-earned cash.
Ask the Right Questions
Before you look at a car, contact the seller and ask lots of questions! By getting as much information about the car as possible, you may save yourself a trip, only to be disappointed when you see it.
Ask about the car’s equipment, general condition, mileage, and whether it’s been serviced regularly. If it’s a private seller, ask why they’re selling it. Is there any rust? Has it been in a crash? If yes, ask them about the extent of the damage, the cost of repairs, and who did the work. Even if there were pictures in the ad, ask if they can send more images.
Check the Mileage
How many miles does the car have? If the total mileage adds up to more than 20,000 per year or less than 5,000, ask why. Cars with high mileage, mostly from long highway commutes, may have less wear than cars with lower mileage that have made a lot of short trips or stop-and-go driving.
Often, sellers will tell you it’s “all highway miles” to make you believe the car is in better condition than it really is, so take any such claims with a grain of salt. In addition, low mileage is usually good, but it doesn’t necessarily mean the car has been cared for.
Look at the Service Records
Does the car come with service records? Any owner who takes meticulous care of their vehicle will usually get the work done at a dealership or reputable garage, and they’ll keep the service records as a badge of honor.
Check that the maintenance has been done at the manufacturer-specified intervals. Some owners like to change the oil and the filters more often than the manufacturer recommends, and there’s nothing wrong with that. Garages usually write down the odometer reading when they perform any work, so that can help you confirm the mileage. Finally, ask to see receipts for replacement parts, etc.
Check For Open Recalls And Get a Vehicle History Report
It’s crucial to find out whether any safety-recall work needs to be done. If you’re at a dealership, they can access the recall history. You can also use the VIN to check the manufacturer’s and NHTSA websites.
If you’re buying from a private seller, it’s a good sign if they can give you a copy of the car’s history report. If not, it’s not a deal-breaker, as you can get it from companies like CARFAX. The report will show if there are any issues with the car, if it’s been in an accident, etc. However, it can soon get expensive if you’re looking at multiple cars.
Read the Window Sticker
The FTC requires car dealers to post a buyer’s guide in every used vehicle they sell. These guides are usually attached to a window and must contain specific information about the car.
It’ll show you whether the car is sold “as is” or with a warranty and whether the dealer must pay any repair costs. This guide also overrides the sales contract, so if it says a warranty covers the car, it doesn’t matter what the contract says; the dealer must honor the warranty. Any car sold “as is” means any issues occurring after you bought it are your responsibility.
Inspect the Exterior
Don’t worry too much about minor scuffs and scrapes. However, it's important to inspect the car for any prior crash damage. Check the car outside in the sun and look for uneven panel gaps, paint differences, and replacement parts that belong to a different model year (for example, pre-facelift headlights on a post-facelift car).
Bring a magnet to check if an area has body filler. Look for rust in all the typical places, such as wheel arches, door sills, etc. Open and close the doors, lift them on the hinges to check if they seem “loose,” check that all the lights are working, that they’re not cracked or have any condensation, and inspect the windshield for cracks.
Inspect the Suspension
Walk around the car and check whether it’s sitting level. As you walk around it, push down on each corner to see if the suspension is in good shape. It should only rebound once. If it bounces up and down, the shocks are worn.
Next, grab the top of the front tire and try to move it back and forth. If there’s any play or clunking noise, it could mean the wheel bearings or suspension joints need to be replaced.
Inspect the Tires
The tires can tell you a lot about a car’s condition. If the vehicle has less than 15,000 miles, it should likely be on its original tires. Make sure all four tires are the same brand and model; if the car has different tires, find out why.
Tires should have even treadwear across the tread and identical wear on the left and right sides. If the outside shoulder of the tire shows more wear, it could be a sign that the car has been driven hard. The tread should be at least 1/16 of an inch to be legal. Finally, look for cracks and bulges on the sidewalls and inspect the rims for cracks, scuffs, and dents.
Inspect the Interior
A car’s interior can tell you much more than you think. Any odor must be inspected. If the cabin or trunk smells musty or moldy, it could mean there’s a water leak. The headliner can often show if there’s a leak. Even if there are no cigarette burns, the owner may still have smoked in the car. Usually, there’s a smell, and you can also check the ashtray and lighter. Both smoke and mold odors can be challenging to get rid of.
Look for interior wear and tear. The interior shouldn’t be badly worn if it's a low-mileage car. Worn pedal rubber is typically a sign of high mileage. Ensure the windows, AC, heater, lights, sound system, seat mechanisms, buttons, and levers, etc., all work properly.
Look Under the Vehicle
Look under the car for marks of leaking gasoline, oil, coolant, or transmission fluid. If the tailpipe is greasy, it’s burning oil. If possible, inspect for rust and leakages underneath the car. Replacing the exhaust and/or CV joints can be expensive.
If there are any dents in the structural components, floor pan, or fuel tank, chances are it’s from an accident. If the frame has been welded on, that’s another sign of repair work. Any fresh undercoating may be an attempt to hide structural repairs.
Inspect Under the Hood
Pop the hood and inspect the engine bay. Some dirt and dust are normal but look for oil splatter or oil dripping onto the ground. Loose wires and hoses, hard or cracked hoses, corrosion on the battery, and frayed or cracked belts are all things to look for. Inspect the fluids as well.
Next, turn on the ignition switch without starting the engine. Ensure all the warning lights illuminate for a few seconds and then turn off as you fire it up. The engine shouldn’t be hard to start and should idle smoothly.
Take it for a Test Drive
Nothing tells you more about a car’s condition than actually driving it. This is your best opportunity to determine whether this is the car for you or if you should continue looking.
Listen for any noises. Check that the steering is responsive and that the car goes straight. Go through the gears and take note of any crunching or grinding. Test the brakes and the clutch (if it’s a manual). If everything seems to be in order, the car is likely okay.
Take It to Your Mechanic
Before signing any contracts, one last thing to do is take the car to a trusted garage that does diagnostic work. Have them scrutinize it from top to bottom.
If the seller doesn’t agree to this, it may be wise to walk away but you should first find out why they won’t do it. If it’s because they don’t want to pay for the inspection, you can offer to pay for it if the car’s in good condition, as you plan to buy it anyway.
